Taping and Mudding Drywall

Finishing Drywall (Taping/Mudding)
Number of People Needed: 5-6
Time it Takes: Approximately 4-6 Weeks
Training Time: 2 Days
Overview of this Process: After installing insulation and closing in the walls of the home with drywall, it is time to finish the drywall. This process is commonly referred to as taping and mudding. The goal of this step is to cover the seams of the drywall and screw holes with tape and mud so the wall achieves a seamless and smooth look for future painting. Mud and tape are applied as the first coat, followed by two additional coats of mud (which increases in width).

Tools Used
Mudding Knives (6”, 8”, 12”)
Mud Pan
Utility Knife
Screwdriver
Hammer
Materials Needed
All Purpose Joint Compound (mud)
Drywall Tape: Paper or Fiberglass Adhesive tape
Corner bead
Drywall Sander
Steps (Using paper tape)
1. Prep your joint compound by stirring it a bit if there is water on top.
2. Look for any screw heads poking above the drywall surface and drive them until slightly recessed. You can find these screws by dragging a hammer along the surface of the drywall. Either hammer the screws down flush with the wall or use a screwdriver.
3. Fill your mud pan with mud; some people choose to use a larger mudding knife to hold the compound, rather than a mud pan.
4. For this first coat, start by loading up your knife with mud and spread a thin coat of it with your 6” knife along the seam, where the drywall edges met. Push the mud in between the sheet to prevent air bubbles. Make sure the coat of mud is wide enough for the tape to adhere to. Once you have filled the joint with compound, smooth the mud (ideally in a single pass) with the surface.
5. When smoothing, make sure to always deposit the excess mud from your knife back into your mud pan.
6. Unroll enough tape off your roll to cover the joint you just applied the mud to.
7. Center your tape over the joint and use your knife or hands to press it firmly into the mud. At the end of the joint, place the knife edge perpendicular to the tape face and tear.

8. Hold your knife at a 45 degree angle and pull your knife to one end of the joint in a single stroke, smoothing the tape and pressing it firmly into the compound. Use two fingers behind the blade for control and leverage. This step is to ensure the tape sticks to the mud and you get ride of excess mud under the tape.
9. Again, remember to scrape the excess mud from your knife back into the pan.
10. For taping the inside corners, repeat the same steps, only crease the tape into the corners.
11. Apply a thin layer of mud over every recessed screw on the drywall. You will not need to put tape over these.
12. Finally, you must apply the first coat of mud to the outside corners. Make sure the metal corner bead is nailed to the outside corners (where the drywall meets) every 10 inches.
13. Using your 6” knife, apply mud on one side of the corner; smooth it out by running the knife down the corner. Repeat on the other side.

**This is the first coat, which needs to dry overnight**
Steps (2nd & 3rd coat of mud)
1. First, use your knife to scrape away any small bumps left along the edges of the mud already on the wall.
2. Next, load up your second largest mudding knife with mud.
3. Apply this second coat of mud to your joints, screws heads, and corners, using the same smoothing techniques you used for the first coat.
4. The second coat should be larger in width than the first coat and it should cover the tape completely so it does not show through.
5. Allow to dry overnight.
6. Before the 3rd coat is applied, you must sand down the edges/imperfections of the second coat. Use a fine-grit drywall sander or sandpaper.
7. Apply the third coat of mud with your largest knife, smoothing to a barely visible edge. Ideally the third coat should be 10’’ or 12’’ wide with the drywall joint in the middle.
8. Let dry overnight.
9. Sand down any rough spots so the walls look seamless.

Notes/Helpful Reminders
Cleanliness is the key to mudding! Always keep the top on the bucket of mud when not in use and clean your mudding knives at the end of the day.
As you mud, constantly scrape excess mud off your knife to prevent debris from creating “drags” and lines on your wall joints.
Do not be afraid of using a lot of mud; it can always be taken off the wall and re-applied if the final appearance of each coat is not suitable.
If the mud is white it is dry, if it is grey in color, it is still wet and requires more time to dry before sanding.
Pull out the excess mud in one direction, longer strokes rather than short.
For mudding corners it is helpful to mud one whole side first, let it dry, and then do the other side.
When sanding be sure to wear a dusk mask and safety glasses.
If possible, use scaffolding for mudding ceilings.

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